Plateau

Sunday, September 1

I slept well.  Deep, hard, sleep.  The hike so wore my body out that my mind was given a rest, too.  I am so thankful. We awoke and had another lovely breakfast at the hostel.  We had arranged for a guide to take us around the plateau in Zumba today and he appeared as soon as the dishes were cleared.  His name was very long but for us it was Chip.

We all piled in our car and headed up a winding road past a few schools and villages.  The grade was steep and we were all glad it was not part of our climb. We parked in front of one of the nice hotels near the top of the plateau and started our hike.  Let me say here that all along the way the timing and the grade of the hike were grossly under-exaggerated but on the way back he commented that we were speedy. I don’t know if it was a language or perspective issues, but Chip’s reporting of today would be vastly different from mine.  

We came quickly to an amazing tree.  It is called a python tree because it wraps around other trees and incorporates them in.  It is also a tree that when there is fighting in a village you all gather under it until there is peace.  It was so huge and beautiful. The picture doesn’t do it justice. Then we passed many villagers carrying wood and lumber from the top.  I regretted ever complaining about the weight of my backpack yesterday. We walked for a very long time and finally came to a few stopping places with waterfalls.  The water was cold and clear.

We continued hiking through piney woods that colonialist brought here years ago.  The pine is now cut in sections but they have started some reforestation efforts so there are rows of young trees as well.  We did have lots of rocky climbing and then some scary slide in the dust downhill treks. I can go quite fast on my derrière. We then reached the overlooks.  It truly is a plateau-flat on the top with a sharp drop off down the sides. The view are incredible. Evidently in the rainy season you can see almost half of the country.  Now, there is dust and smoke in the air that impedes the view.  

We continued on to the man made dam that provides water to the area and finally back to the parking area.  It was about a 4 hour hike. I could not drink enough water to keep up.  

The farmers of this area grow raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, and rubbarb.  This is the harvest season so we bought a lot. They were delicious and I paid less than $2 for a giant bowl.  The local craftsmen also set up stalls along the road and we purchased a few trinkets as well.  

We then started our descent down to the hostel. There we collected our bags, ordered some sandwiches and loaded the car.  Food takes an extraordinary amount of time to come out here. That seems to be consistant everywhere I have been so far. We were a little anxious to get on the road because we needed to drive 3 ½ hours and did not want to revisit the driving in the dark.

The drive home was pleasant and good.  Lots of conversation and looking at scenery.  Malawi is just so diverse. It has beauty and is so harsh at the same time.  Waterfalls and yet constant dust and grit. Bowls of berries and starving children.  All of it makes me so thankful for what I have. Such an easy life. Even looking at the throngs of people packed in a truck I am thankful for my hot and sweaty seat in the car that I am not sharing!

I am also very thankful when we arrive at the guesthouse.  Thankful to be greeted by the sweet kids and new friends. Thankful for the fan in my room.  And beyond thankful for a shower and soap! I am so blessed.